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Remove the caps after the air temperatures rise during the day. If you use hot caps, you may set out transplanted crops in the garden a week or two before it would otherwise be safe to do so. Apply one-half-cup per plant at planting time. Firm the soil around the roots and water with the starter fertilizer solution.

With a hand shovel, make a hole large enough to receive easily the root ball of the transplant.

Scrape the dry surface soil from the planting area.

If you transplant seedlings in peat pots, make sure the top edge of the peat pot is not above the soil surface or the peat pot will act like a wick and rapidly draw the moisture from the root ball, stressing the plant.

You can transplant seedlings grown in separate containers without disturbing the roots.

Cut the soil between the plants with a knife so each plant can separate easily with a substantial root ball attached.

Water plants well before transplanting.

Transplant in late afternoon or on a cool, cloudy, calm day.

Cover the transplant tray or peat pots with clear plastic and keep in a warm room until germination.

Gently water the transplant trays using a fine screened watering tool to prevent washing the seeds out of the soil.

Cover the seeds lightly with sand, screened soil or vermiculite.

Make a one-fourth to one-half-inch hole using a dibble tool or pencil with a tape mark to keep the depth consistent.

Sow two to three seeds in each tray cell or peat pot.

After filling in the depressions, level the soil to about one-fourth-inch below the top.

Fill the transplant tray or peat pots with the soil mixture and carefully firm the soil along the sides.

Premixed soil mixtures are available at garden centers.

Thoroughly mix the soil in a wheelbarrow with a shovel and sift it through a one-fourth-inch mesh screen.

A good soil mixture contains two parts loam, one part sand and one part organic matter.

Start seeds indoors in plastic trays or peat pots that are three to four inches deep.